Chariot

[marcel]

the 6 spokes of the wheels are attached with strip and resin and then the whole is maintained with a ring. This is what gives the form of the spokes. You have not a hole in the middle of a piece of wood. the extremity of the spoke is between 2 pieces of the wheel (6 pieces). There is other method but it was that method egyptian did for this kind of charriot. That i see in this thread is a wheel for cowboys, not antic egyptian. it depend if you need a real historic model or not.

[Finis]

Thanks Marcel!

I posted a lot in my MMC thread in the Caligari forum about my search for blueprints or plans or details of real Egyptian chariots. http://forums1.caligari.com/truespace/s ... php?t=6917 I read about the strips of cow intestines (which contract as they dry) and glue and that the spokes and hubs were really 6 "V" shapes put together. They had wooden replaceable wheels, the outer ring, held on with strips through slots so the strips didn't wear off on the ground. Of course the chariots changed over the long time that they were used. The later ones had metal reinforcements and friction sleeves. They probably had woven mat floors too. There was an archeological site that had plans or diagrams but it cost money.

You are right that my construction is more modern. Since I couldn't find no-cost complete details about the construction I opted to invent one. So this one isn't intended to be historically accurate. I found that Egyptians did have the tools and techniques (lathes, drills, saws, chisels) to build one this way but they didn't do it this way. So I engineered this one so that it would work and could have been built back then ... although they would not have have done it this way.

If you, or anyone knows of free complete (emphasize complete) diagrams, blueprints, or details of the genuine construction then let me know. Anyone know of a book with all the details? I'll find my library card. I'd like to do a chariot that is historically accurate.

[marcel]

OK i saw the other thread.
Your model look likes a chariot from the period between 1500 (Amenhotep) and 1300 (Toutankhamon) before christ. the spokes should be assembled on a single metallic piece in the center of the wheel. a sds object can be nice. You can modify the objet to do what you want.

[Finis]

Thanks again Marcel. What would really be helpful would be the source of this information. Where did you find that? Then I can see the whole design and use it for another project to make a historically accurate chariot ... which I would like to do. Is that metal piece bronze, copper, or what? Yes, the look of mine is based mostly on photos of one of Tut's chariots.

This project is the imaginary engineering chariot.

[marcel]

after linking the spokes together and coated with resin, the central form is decorated with a metallic and gold appearance. this is not a cast. I have no source, i saw that in a museum. we often have a misconception of the past. The world was very colorful. Cathedrals painted with bright colors and the pyramids were white and gold. If the model seems too new, it seem not real but it is historically more accurate. The stones were not always old.

[Finis]

Right you are. All the old things were new once.

I rebuilt the wheel so each hole in centered in a section. New mesh for holes. Is that good?

[Jack Edwards]

If you add an extra loop going around the outside of the hole and one on the inside, it will hold it's shape better when SDS is applied. This is much better geometry than you previous posted.

[Finis]

Thanks Jack. There'll be no SDS on this or most of this model.

The wheels have slots on their inner surfaces to hold straps. I think these can be seen in the big picture in the first post. Here is a picture of a strap slot. Close up and showing its location on the wheel with a yellow mark.

What should I do about the 8-gon marked with green?

I'm thinking of splitting the quad marked with red into tris to continue that line by merging it with one of the other lines under the slot. Is that good?

[Jack Edwards]

If you're not planning to do SDS then the "rules" are a bit different and there's no real need to avoid triangles. The issues are more with getting good normals.

You can fix the 8 sided polygon by continue the loops on either side of the recessed area back around the rim until they connect up and by continuing the recessed edge as a loop along the rim. This would also mitigate the need to modify the red marked polys and is probably the best solution.

[theuns]

WOW! lots of detail and thought in it so far Finis... looking good :)